where the writers are
Holiday Books - Cooking
Date of Review: 
Dec.05.2008
Reviewer: 
Craig Seligman
Source: 
New York Times

I’m so over being lectured by food writers to honor the seasons and stock up on sea salt and otherwise comport myself virtuously in the kitchen that it was a small thrill to come upon one whose mission is to make us eat fat. Eat fat! That’s a message I can get behind. In fact, Jennifer McLagan’s substantial and by no means unserious FAT: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, With Recipes (Ten Speed, $32.50) makes the same argument Michael Pollan created a stir with earlier this year in his much talked-about “In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto”: that the craze for animal-fat substitutes has damaged our health. Fat, it turns out, is a lot like TV — nourishing as long as it’s not your whole diet. From time to time you should eat a little salad. (You can toss it with McLagan’s brown-butter or hot bacon dressing.)